Tulsa, who knew?

The drive from Memphis to Cuba Missouri was quiet, whole stretches with no cars and endless, endless trees... The road started out like a like a regular road, then turn after turn became smaller, narrower and with a FOREST more trees. Whole hours went past with no other cars, certainly no other people and only mailboxes at the end of tiny dirt tracks to indicate that anyone at all lived there. We did pass a drive-in, weirdly in the middle of nowhere. And an incredibly busy gas station, which we bypassed - in retrospect wisely as when we finally got to another gas station by the side of a lake, we realised we had no idea how to open the petrol cap AND we had the ‘do we pay up front, how do we use this nozzle, WHY IS IT SO HARD’ moment (idiots)

Finally, the endless empty roads led to Cuba, Missouri. Our first stop on historic Route 66 and a historic motel, The Wagon Wheel. There are some good things about classic motels, it’s brilliant that people take them on and save them and that people stay in them and keep them alive... BUT let’s be honest, times have moved on since the 50’s and whilst quaint and very well restored, the room was basic, small and old fashioned. Our diner was served by a young lad straight out of central casting, but with a mighty fine blood orange margarita and the night was wrapped up hearing 4th July fireworks all around.

A fantastic breakfast, certainly breaking the Golden Westbury Rule of ‘never eat anything bigger than your own head’ was followed by a visit to a charming tiny town local museum, that really did surprise, with its collection of small town bits including stunning examples of dresses and lingerie from the turn of the century... a real treat to see examples of 1920’s dresses worn not by the rich and famous, but by aspirational women from a small town.

Onwards....the road goes onwards.... We did stop at Uranus....a brief stop at a trading post which specialises in fudge packing, where the staff shout ‘thank you for picking Uranus’ every 3 minutes....obviously Sam and I giggled endlessly...

Springfield was a thankful retreat from the POURING rain, not just a rain shower, more a BUCKET full falling endlessly ON OUR HEADS. We pulled into a fine motel, complete with 50’s cars on the edge of town and after sighing a HUGE sigh of relief to have made it through the storm we found the town to be actually quite sweet...as you would expect a college town in The Mid West to be. Good craft beer, excellent chats, preachers on every corner - but fine, mighty fine (although with truthfully one of the worst bands we have ever seen, butchering 50’s & 60’s covers, which local folk seemed to enjoy and dance to eagerly, although not quite in time or rhythm to the tunes being played.) Onwards....the road goes onwards.... Route 66 out of Springfield had some real delights... Gay Parita with George and his wife and their real labour of love in this road side stop, impeccable gardens and some mighty fine photogenic rusty cars. Just beyond that...PWOAR 2 very sexy bridges that I just swooned over. We were totally alone on the road, no cars, no people, just us, the sound of the creeks below and the birds...such a treat. So tempting to climb down to swim, but onwards, ever onwards. A quick stop in Carthage which was straight out of Back To The Future, compete with town square and clock tower and then onwards to Red Oak II. A deserted recreated town, of immaculate houses from the turn of the century onwards. Again, just me, Sam and some birds... incredibly moving to be there.

Onwards....we decided to push on to Tulsa. A quick search showed they had craft beer and breweries (hey, everyone does Route 66 for their own reasons, mine may well centre around good beer) so it seemed like a good stop. But we knew little about it other than it supposedly had a good downtown area. What a surprise it turned out to be! Firstly our house was a stunning 1901 house, owned by a great gay couple than ran a catering company - so we had the most GORGEOUS muffins (when I say we, I mean me) the house had a pool, hot tub (clothing optional!) a lovely dog called Bette Noir and just the most comfortable beds and relaxing spaces (all the films listed on their guide to Netflix were listed as ‘gay’ or ‘straight’ films 🙂) Secondly - Tulsa is a BRILLIANT small town with a thriving Arts area, excellent bars & music scene, an annual Punk festival, inspiring museums and just some of the most friendly dogs and people we have come across so far! On our first night we saw a simply wonderful Country singer in an effortlessly cool industrial craft brewery, Ragland....check them out she has an amazing voice! Leaving there and wandering the streets we realised we had walked into 1986 with a very clean and tidy punk festival, kids with bright green mohicans (or Mohawks) studded denim jackets and fishnet tights....obviously me and Sam reminisced about our own spiked hair and perfect back eye make up, whilst obviously being old enough to be their parents. We also accidentally walked into Dennis Quaid, yes the actual actor Denis Quaid, playing a free rock concert in the city park, watching RIGHT from the side of the stage - incredibly blizzard (and also rather good) Further more we ‘accidentally’ walked into a bar straight out of ‘86’ complete with excellent graffiti and 80’s music and FINALLY ended the night in simply one of the best Tiki bars we have been to!

Tulsa! Who knew! We decided one day just wasn’t long enough so extended our stay a day, to be able to explore more (yes and to swim and hot tub again) and we visited the Gilcrease Museum - seeing (and not stealing) the Declaration of Independence, some rather fine bronze statues from Remington, examples of Native American art AND an exhibition of Pulitzer Prize winning photography. In one museum. Brilliant. Yes, more beer was drunk, more dogs stroked, more giggling and punks happened and more Tiki decorations were marvelled over by Sam (with plans for how to adapt for the bar at Sparkle Mansions) Tulsa is a great city, surprising, compact, interesting, fun.... who knew? Not me.... Onwards.....ever onwards....